Five years ago on 6 March 2008, Magnus Linklater in The Times wrote on
The Coming Food Crisis. Below is what he
had to say.
So what progress have we made? In
the meantime we have started to lose all the bees we need for pollination.
Quote:
The early signals are there, but the world
seems to be sleepwalking towards disaster
To explain the exact
connection between a newly opened hamburger joint in Beijing, Sir Richard
Branson's biofuelled planes and the strip of wild flowers running round my
farmer friend's field in Cambridgeshire would take more than the 970 words
allotted to me here but, believe me, they will be on the front page of this and
every other newspaper before long, because they spell the beginnings of a
full-blown food crisis.
You can see the early signals
already - the doubling of wheat prices, the mounting cost of bread, the
steepest increases at the supermarkets for 14 years, demonstrations on the
streets by pig farmers threatened with bankruptcy, “tortilla riots” in Mexico,
the drying up of aid to the Third World.
And this is only the start of
it. In the words of Tim Lang, Professor of Food Policy at the University of Leeds:
“We are sleep-walking into a crisis.” At the very least he predicts the end of
the era of cheap food, which will of itself amount to a big shift in our eating
habits. But if the process of rising costs and diminishing supplies of grain
accelerates, as it may well do, we could witness actual shortages of basic foodstuffs.
One report last month said that the world is only ten weeks away from running
out of wheat supplies after stocks fell to their lowest level for 50 years.
The causes are many and
various, but at their heart is a change in global consumer habits that has
crept up on us almost without our noticing. In China
and the Far East, growing wealth has been
accompanied by a taste for Western diets, including, principally, beef, which
is now being imported in increasing quantities.
There was a time when the idea
of an American-style hamburger would have turned the stomach of the average
Chinese; not any more. McDonald's is rolling out a chain of drive-through
fast-food outlets in China's 30,000 petrol stations, and opening restaurants
across that vast country to cater for a new appetite for Western meat.
The world market for beef, and
the resulting need for cattle feed has coincided with a decline in the
production of grain, as the maize farmers of America switch from producing their
standard crops to growing biofuels as an alternative source of energy.
Worried by the instability of oil and
gas-supplying states throughout the world - from Russia
to the Middle East - the US Government has
encouraged farmers to turn their fields over to producing ethanol. Production
of this alternative fuel is predicted to rise by 30 per cent by 2010. As one
farmer put it: “Once I grew food for a bullock, now I grow fuel for a Buick.”
Enter Sir Richard, heralding a
new era of carbon-free aviation travel by sending one of his passenger jets
across the North Sea, its tanks brimming with
biofuels. His feat is, of course, widely applauded, with giants of the
global-warming era such as Bill Clinton and Al Gore congratulating him on a
pledge to spend $3 billion on developing his alternative Virgin fuels. So, just
at a time when we should be considering how best to increase our production of
grain, we in Britain
are switching off one main source of it.
Here then, one might imagine,
would be an opportunity for Britain,
with its long tradition of highly efficient farming, to begin filling the gap.
As Professor Lang, in a lecture this week at City
University, London,
pointed out, Britain
has turned round its farming industry to become one of the most productive in
the world. Too productive, perhaps. By the 1970s Britain
and Europe, aided by massive subsidies, were
contributing to grain, beef and butter mountains that had become a source of
international scandal.
The Common Agricultural Policy
began switching its grant system away from production towards more
environmentally friendly schemes. Farmers were encouraged to grow verges round
their fields, where wild life could flourish. Hedges, ripped out to increase
the size of fields, were carefully replanted. Ponds, small copses, water verges
and species-rich grassland were actively encouraged.
It did wonders for
biodiversity, and made a great deal of money for some. My East Anglian farmer
friend reported happily on the marked improvement the new grants had made to
his bottom line.
He is less happy now. With
wheat at £180 a ton, he would dearly like to rip out the thickets and meadows
where birds and bees so happily congregate, and go back to doing what he is
best at - producing grain. But he is locked into a ten-year scheme and, for the
time being at any rate, he is unable to make the switch.
Elsewhere, there are some
signs of flexibility: in Scotland
a new scheme is being introduced, aimed at encouraging farmers to co-operate,
and become more competitive and more market-orientated. But overall there is
little sign that policy-makers have grasped the enormity of what has happened.
The UK
is now barely 60 per cent self-sufficient in food.
It is clear that the
Government has yet to react to the dimensions of the looming world food crisis.
It needs to begin a debate with the EU on the whole direction of Europe's agricultural strategy and rethink it from
scratch, devising a strategy for sustainable production, then begin to educate
the public about the realities ahead. It will mean a change in culture that is
a million miles from the Tesco-driven consumerism we have grown lazily used to
over the past 20 years.
Professor Lang suggests we may
need to go back to the ground-breaking reports of the 1940s, which led to a
wholesale shift in Britain's
approach to food production. If that means a revolutionary change in the
national diet, then so be it. Maybe that would be no bad thing.
Unquote.
Recently, food prices have
been increasing rather more than inflation.